How to See the BWCA in One Trip | Portage North

When it comes to planning trips, I can be a bit of a dreamer, and if you’re anything like me, you spend a great deal of time thinking about what could be possible. I may not have the days lined up or the permits pulled yet. I may not even know which friends will accompany me or what gear I'm going to take. But none of those unknowns keep me from dreaming about the trips I wish I could experience! At the start of the pandemic, I was living on a mountain in Wyoming. We had already been snowed in for most of the season, so being isolated by a brewing pandemic didn’t immediately change my day to day existence at that stage. Despite being in Wyoming, my mind often wandered back home to the BWCA and all the fond memories and future hopes. It was then that I started work on something crazy. The route was a combination of inspirations from the Freemans' year in the wilderness to the annual Kruger Challenges to the feats of Kruger and Waddell themselves. Also, there was some of my personal goals sprinkled in such as visiting as much of the BWCA as possible. It’s with this in mind that I sought to answer the question: “If a person set out to take one trip that included every portage in the BWCA, how many miles would that be?" And so, I began to tediously calculate the route little by little, planning it as if I were actually able to take such a trip. I planned in permits, campsite stops, pacing, restocks, and made tough decisions about routes and how to shave mileage off when possible.

This article is the result of that scheming. Since I may never get the chance to complete this route myself (who’s to say), it seemed fun to share my study. Because the BWCA is split into three pieces, a person taking this route would not stay in the BWCA for the entire experience as one would have to cross the Echo Trail and the Gunflint Trail at some point. Also, the idea of taking every portage brings up a few obvious issues. First, what is a maintained portage? This is trickier to judge then one may think. Is it a portage that the Forest Service intends to maintain no matter how often it receives it? Is it a portage marked on a map? What if it is only marked on some maps and not others? And what about portages that now are part of the PMA system (officially un-maintained) which still show up on maps? For this case study, I used the standard of a portage which shows up on Fisher, Mckenzie, and Voyageur maps (sorry True North and NatGeo, those were the three at my disposal.) Another issue with an every portage route is that it is incredibly inefficient. Unlike many of the lateral, “goal-focused” challenge routes, an every portage route requires a fair bit of out-and-back to entry points in order to pick up out-of-the-way portages. Also, there are a few, “loose-end” portages not connected to other routes per-say such as the Crocodile Lake portages (require exiting the BWCA on E Bearskin to access), the Bog Lake portage (single lake EP with no attached route), and a single portage on the Island River which may technically cross back into the wilderness even though all the surrounding route is outside. Finally, the issue arrises of true completion. There are plenty of portages marked, especially along river routes, that either are completely unnecessary or are non-existent due to changing conditions such as beaver dams, blowdowns, or fires. Since conditions have negated their usefulness, they were never reopened but remained on maps. In order to complete every official portage, does a person need to take a portage, even unnecessary ones, if it is marked on the three maps (my previously outlined standard?) I will try to address my solutions to these problems as I outline the route below. If anyone is interested in an expanded version, I’m happy to go into greater detail. For now though, here’s a 1330 mile Boundary Waters route for my fellow dreamers out there.

Similarly to the Kruger and Voyageur Challenges, this trip would enter the BWCA at the westernmost entry point EP 12 - Little Vermillion Lake. For efficiency’s sake, this makes the most sense since the 14 mile stretch from Crane Lake to Loon Lake would become 28 if completed as an out-and-back later. Also, for personal preference, I would like to spend as little time in the motor zone as I can. That’s just me. From there, one would cross at Little Indian Sioux. This is where the route hits its first hiccup at the crossing of the Echo Trail. There has long been a rule about crossing the Echo and the Gunflint without getting a new permit as long as you do not camp outside of the BWCA in between. As I have heard the rule, it includes crossing at Little Indian Sioux, Big Lake/Stuart River, Moose/Portage Rivers, and Gunflint Lake. Now, normally, one is not allowed to leave the BWCA without invalidating their permit, but these exemptions were put in place to allow crossings. If your group would feel uncomfortable with this, there are a few options. 1) Start at Little Indian South and go out-and-back on the Loon River later in the trip, 2) get a new permit issued somehow for Little Indian South, or 3) start your trip in a warm year so you may make the crossing the last week of April and have a self-issued permit. In any case, Little Indian South and down to Bootleg to camp. After the 200 rod portage out of Bootleg, there is one river portage to the north to go out-of-the-way for and then take the river to Chad Creek before backtracking to portage into Little Trout (this is a good example of the tedium of an every-portage adventure.) From there, complete the racetrack around Trout making sure to get all the dead-end lakes before turning into Pine. Now this is where the portaging starts because the next destination is Chad and all the portages into and out of the tiny lakes to come. You may decide on your way southeast if you will take the big Cummings portage out-and-back now or save it for a night spent camping on Cummings. Eventually, the route works down to Boulder and Phantom. Complete the loop of portages through the other quiet and shallow lakes in that chain and then head up to Crab. Make sure to grab the Crab entry portage before heading up to Coxey Pond and over into Cummings. There’s probably a layover day on Cummings to get the rest of the Little Indian Sioux, the Buck portage, the other Korb portage, and the Neewin Portage. From there, it’s north to Big Moose, check off the Moose River portages, cut over to check off the Slim Lake loop, and then backtrack up to Big Lake. If you are still allowing yourself to cross without a new permit, one would camp on Lapond before launching north the next day. Otherwise, a new permit can be had at one of the Big Lake lodges. After crossing the Echo, it’s a good push up the Stuart River. From Stuart Lake, it’s through the very pretty little chain of lakes on the way to Iron before turning west to LLC and the group of portages between there and Agnes. From Agnes, it’s the loop of portages around and through the North Moose River and then up to Oyster and Rocky. From there begins a stretch where it’s important to pay attention and not miss any side portages as you work your way back and forth on your way westward to Devil’s Cascade. Go up to the Loon/LLC portage before turning back and heading up to Slim instead. From here, there is so many options and so much scenery, it may be hard to weigh exactly what should be out-and-back portages and what should be through-portages. Essentially, the goal is to hit all the portage trails back and forth along the way to Ge-be-on-e-quet, stopping at every little lake under LLC along the way. From Gebe, it’s eastbound into the central BWCA and all the adventures to come.

Eastward on Lac La Croix, Iron, and Crooked with a stop at the beautiful Curtain Falls will eventually bring you to the turnoff to head south towards Fourtown and Horse. Along the way, the route requires a few side trips to Moosecamp, Beartrap/Thunder, and Angleworm/Hegmans. There’s lots to see along the way. From Fourtown, dip south towards the entry portages and then its up to the Horse River and then the Basswood River and its iconic cascades. From Basswood Lake the “what is an official portage” question rears its ugly head again. Are parts of the old four-mile portage still considered maintained? If they are, then it’s down to the Four-Mile. From there, it’s a major backtrack to go up and around, so my route pushes onto Hoist bay through the miserable (and possibly quite flooded) four-mile portage. There’s the back bay portages and the chain of lakes connected to Wood to swing through on the way east to Wind Lake. It seems cruel after so many miles paddled to have to head into the traffic jam of groups on Moose, but every portage means every portage. Maybe it will rain at least for the stop at Prarie Portage and Manomin. Cut south into Ensign and set up camp on a lake of your choosing. The next day is a loop trip through Snowbank, Disappointment, and all the lakes in between before arriving back at your previously established campsite. Push back through Ensign to the beautiful Trident Lake and then over to Knife, Portage, Vera, and into the unique chain stretching east from Missionary. The odd bias of this route is that it forces you onto smaller lakes. There’s no sense in paddling the length of Knife since there are no portages there. From Missionary it’s east to Spoon, check off the two Bonnie portages, and then south into Kekekabic. South from there to Fraser, east to Cap, and then back west to Ima. The out-and-back to Cap saves you from more repetition later at a less opportune time. From Ima, make a turn south to Thomas via Kiana, pit-stopping at the Alice portage along the way, and then its east to the incomparable Fishdance.

You are now in one of the quietest sections of the BW, and for good reason. You’ve worked hard to get here and a lot of work still lay ahead. Unfortunately though, Fishdance is but a respite, and you’ll soon be engulfed in some of the busiest areas the BWCA have to offer. Hold on. Pushing hard west from Fishdance, which is enough out of the way to necessitate the pitstop now, you’ll head through areas familiar to many of us. From Hudson, turn north to Fire to begin the figure eight which turns down into the old “Hell Chain” as I have known it since a “Welcome to Hell” sign once greeted visitors. Circle through the Wilders, back to Hudson, and then up and over to Rifle, and then it’s the numbers chain and Kawishiwi from there. Through the Kawishiwi Triangle, down to Gabbro, up to Clearwater and through that chain, and then its east to the Isabella River and all connected tributaries. The route from here is self explanatory for awhile with one big if. Upon reaching Parent, where do you go? There used to be a portage north to Kawishiwi Lake that’s not been on the maps for awhile. Trip reports the past few years have shown some hope of it being passable, but, if it’s not, it’s a long, long backtrack to Insula or a 2 mile road walk and a new permit. There isn’t a lot of great options, so I would hope for the overgrown portage. From Kawishiwi north to Mahlberg and then into one of my favorite BWCA sections around Beaver/Adams/Boulder. Loop east through Makwa and back south until turning onto the Louse River. There will be lots of portaging again for awhile. Make sure to get both alternate routes around the Mug Falls area and then it’s the monster portage from Zenith to Lujenida. There’s one major inefficiency coming up with an out-and-back through the entirety of the Lady Chain to the west of Afton. Then it’s through Afton and Sawbill over to Kelly, north to the Temperances, and over the Laurentian divide to Cherokee. Another inefficiency here as you out and back to Sawbill before it’s north to the Frost.

The Frost River will be a straightforward if not time consuming venture as you head west to Gillis eventually. The route has officially crossed into the Gunflint Ranger district where it will remain for most of the rest of the trip except for some time near Brule. From Gillis, the route snakes through all the lakes between Gillis and Brant. Head west and over to Little Sag, up into Gabi and through Agamok to Ogish. Make a stop at Kek ponds before completing the classic Esther/Hansen/Ottertrack loop, and make sure to not miss the splendid yet difficult route through Gijikiki to Lake of the Clouds. Work back the way you came to Eddy Falls, through Ogish into Red Rock. This part of the trip will be a lot of repeated territory since the next step is heading south on the Granite River past the final portage before turning back to Saganaga. The next stretch brings you through Grandpa and then over one of the BW’s most infamous portages to Paulson. “It’s a beautiful hike and a terrible portage” holds true. The troublesome portaging continues as the Tuscarora and Howl Swamp portages are crossed off on your way east to Cross Bay. Work south and east to head over the brutal portage to Davis Lake . The next step is down the Cones into Brule and a side venture into the lakes connected to Homer. An out-and-back to Bower Trout is followed by heading up to Winchell. From Winchell, there’s plenty of side ventures ahead with trips to Ram, Morgan and the Caribou region before slinging back to Long Island for the final push up the chain of lakes culminating in Skipper. It’s now time to cross the Gunflint! An astute observer may point out, “why are you crossing at Skipper? Isn’t Gunflint Lake the place to cross!?!” and you would be correct, normally. But since my route was based on shortest distance, you actually save distance by crossing at Poplar. One would have to coordinate with an outfitter to land, pick up a new permit, and cross to make your re-entry at Bearskin and into Duncan. The route is nearing its completion in what I consider the prettiest section of the BWCA. Head down the stairway portage after an out-and-back to Partridge and then its west to collect the South Lake portages. Follow the Voyageurs highway east down the border past magnificent stone palisades and turquoise waters. Past Mountain and Moose, you’ll travel through the Fowls and up into the Pikes before turning down into Pine and the number of small lakes to the south. Cut over to Clearwater to get the portages into Pine and Gogebic and turn back south past Johnson Falls. Stop by Crystal and Pierz and their connected water bodies before heading west to E Bearskin, Moon, Deer, and Clearwater. Finish up the trip on E Bearskin by checking off the Crocodile portages on a day permit.

And, just like that, a 1330 mile Boundary Waters adventure is concluded. If, somehow, you have made it this far into the article, you must be at least as much of a BWCA nerd as me. Reading my rambling list of lakes and portages hopefully helped you dream up your own routes ahead. Even if your trip is simply a piece of this “every portage” route, I hope the glimmer of adventure shown here helps inspire you. If for no other reason, this route exists because I want to know the limit. I want to experience the BWCA and know it in its entirety. Taking every portage wouldn't achieve that, but it would accomplish something pretty special. To be able to walk away from that trip and say "I have taken every portage" is to claim a familiarity with the Boundary Waters that few if any people ever could. And greater than that for me would be the chance to see the vast variety across this landscape from the permanent features of water and stone to the temporary condition of weather and waves. And even if I never get the chance to take this route in one go, I hope that in a lifetime of trips I may come close. And perhaps that is the essence of the dream after all. Somewhere in the inspired routes rests a spirit of adventure, a craving of the quiet and the wild, and a joy found in the simple rhythms of a canoe trip. And, hopefully, in each dreamed route shaped into reality, I may encounter that just a little bit more.